5. Pot Pot eventually arrived, apologising again and again for keeping me late. You can choose from several traditional designs on the wooden boards provided. Standard price of Apo Whang-od’s signature is Php100. The village of Buscalan is home to Whang Od Oggay, a centenarian tattoo artist (mambabatok) and last of the traditional Kalinga tattooists, as well as a major cause for tourism in the area.First brought to international attention in 2009 after anthropologist Lars Krutek’s 2007 journey to Buscalan was aired on Discovery Channel’s Tattoo Hunter, Whang … When a helicopter brought tattoo artist Whang-ud from her home village in remote Buscalan in Tinglayan, Kalinga province, to Manila for a two-day trade event, people cried “exploitation!” According to the feature story entitled “At 100 or So, She Keeps a Philippine Tattoo Tradition Alive” and written by Aurora Almendral Wang-Od is a tattoo artist from the tribe of Butbut of the Kalinga ethnic group of the Philippines.. She is one of the legends who belongs to the last generation doing the ritual inking and is also one of the few who still remembers how it was done. But hey, even though it’s just 3 dots, it still eats a lot of time especially if many people are lined up for her signature. Yes, it’s manageable because I did not cry (hahaha) but for me it hurts and I bled a lot. Apo(a word to show respect) Whang-od does NOT do full tattoos anymore because she is 101 years old and her eyesight isn’t up to it anymore. II. Pot pot was constantly smiling and somewhat resembled a small Buddha with his shaved head and twinkling eyes. The Whang-Od streetwear cap goes on sale … It can be bought in Buscalan, just ask your guide to buy one for you. In anticipation of her retirement from the tattooing scene, Whang Od has been busily training other women in the village how to give Kalinga Tattoos and there are now as many as ten other artists, the youngest of whom is just eight years old – it seems that the practice of Kalinga tattooing will live on. However, please also understand that having the traditional tattoo, especially by Apo Whang-od, is really worth the wait and should not be rushed. Occasionally, if she liked you, she would tattoo a westerner. I. If you are planning to go to Buscalan anytime soon, here are few things you need to know before getting a tattoo from the Oldest Mambabatok (traditional Kalinga tattooist) and National Living Treasure in the mountain of Kalinga. This was not why I was here. 6/9/2015. Home » South East Asia » Receiving a Tribal Tattoo from Whang Od. In my experience, I just put Bactroban Anti-bacterial ointment the night after having my tattoo. As of early 2019, she is 102 years old and is still tattooing in the traditional ways. Whang-od Oggay (First name pronunciation: [ˈɸɐŋ.ˈʔɘd]; born February 17, 1917), also known as Maria Oggay, is a Filipino tattoo artist from Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga, Philippines. MANILA -- Ninety-six-year old Apo Whang-od is the oldest "mambabatok" in Tinglayan, Kalinga province. And I would like to stress the posted guideline on their wall…“If you cannot wait, then you do not deserve this rare work of art.”, P.S. You can get her signature, the 3 dots, for 100p and I … Q: Apo Whang-od uses unsterilized materials for tattooing, is it safe? III. as well as some matches and a kilo of salt. Again, it depends on how big the design is and if how easy your skin can absorb the pine tree soot (ink). Apo Whang-Od is the legendary Filipina tattoo artist from Kalinga and the last to hold the Mambabatok title — a true tattoo master.. Fruits and Sustagen Premium are nice ideas too. Tattoo from Apo Whang-od depends on availabilty. Whang Od is currently in poor health and is turning away the vast majority of those who come seeking tattoos. Wait for Apo Whang-od to tell you the price of the tattoo after the session. People with tattoo in the past decades are considered as ex-convicts because the idea of tattoo … 29 July 2017 on CODA Lines, apo whang od, fang od, buscalan, kalinga, backpacking philippines, bus to buscalan, legendary tattoo artist, photos coda lines bus If you're dreaming to reach Apo Whang … Whang-Od inks multiple tattoos a day using a few tools—a thorn from a pomelo tree, a foot-long bamboo stick, coal, and water. After I published my story about Getting Inked by Whang Od a couple of years ago, I’ve received numerous e-mails and private messages from people from around the world asking for more information about Buscalan and the famous tattoo artist, Apo Whang Od. Tattoos … Check out TakeFive Outdoors ‘s compilation of the 10 most popular Kalinga tattoos people usually get tatted on them by Whang-Od:. These are a coconut bowl where water, charcoal, and sweet potato are combined to produce the tribal tattoo … For decades, Whang Od has kept the traditions of the Butbut tribe alive by tattooing with thorns, charcoal and a small bamboo hammer. I turned, catching the last rays of the sun as they slipped across the valley, and decided I better hurry up. My bucket list adventure to Whang Od Apo, the oldest Buscalan traditional tattoo artist and living legend, to get a tattoo in the Philippines. 7. My traveler tattoo costs Php500 but I gave Apo Whang-od a Php500 tip. If you really want a customized one (a mix of several traditional designs available), you may want to consider having Grace or Elyang do it but it’s not always 100% sure that they would agree to do it. Practicalities of visiting Whang Od – July 2016 Update, Pot Pot’s walkthrough over at Travel Trilogy. I felt nothing. The musical noise of the hammer drifted across the village as a crowd of interested villagers watched to see if I would reveal any sign of pain. With THE Whang-Od. This past weekend both my physical and mental strength were tested. Walk few meters, past the police station , and look for a jeepney (Php60) or van (Php150) to take you to the turning point in Tinglayan. 4. They are not persistent but the happiness you see whenever you hand them little treats is just priceless. Whang-od uses a thorn, a bamboo stick and wet charcoal to put the design on one's skin. If possible, ask your guide to schedule you in the morning to be tattooed. Based on Kalinga tradition, the master tattooist could only pass on the batok tattooing to blood relatives to prevent getting the tattoos infected by others. . Never have I imagined myself getting a tattoo, but I did! Or get 4-5 business-day shipping on this item for $5.99 . What is also intriguing is that 102 year old Whang-Od seems to be one of the last tattoo … Yun ang sabi samin as courtesy. As for the wet wipes, make sure to make every ply accessible to Apo so she will use it to wipe the ink and blood from your skin. 10. I had traversed valleys and hiked through the jungle, ridden atop metallic-death vans and endured belching fumes; what were a few pin-pricks to mark the successful completion of my journey? She is often described as the "last" and oldest mambabatok (traditional Kalinga tattooist) and is part of the Butbut people of the larger Kalinga ethnic group. Electro-swing pumped through my headphones as I held on tight to the metal roof-rack, my fingers white from the biting wind. People from all over the world visit Buscalan all year round just to get a tattoo from the master so plan your trip accordingly. Don't miss to visit the best Tattoo Store ever: www.tattoolifestore.com Required Cookies & Technologies. This rare look into her daily life paints a beautiful portrait of Apo Whang-od, an artist molded by traditions and a … Bring something for the kids. Healing takes time. Don’t worry, the Butbut tribe of Buscalan is very nice.Your tour guide will arrange the accommodation for you. Apo would sometimes comment during or after each of her session “balat kalabaw” (in Butbut Kalinga dialect) if your skin takes too long to absorb the ink. I had snacked on local delicacies, made friends with a couple of chaps in the village and enjoyed chilling out for a bit. Expect to live under one roof with a local family. This is not mandatory but small gifts will be highly appreciated by Apo. A pattern will be drawn on your skin using a thin grass stalk. It took us exactly 1 hour with 3 very brief stops to rest and catch our breaths. 2. Villagers say you can get a phone signal if you’re using an old model phone and when you hang it outside the window. There are already groups lining up to get her signature tatto, the three dots, and the designed tattoo. I strongly suggest that you consider heading to OTHER villages in the Buscalan area so as not to overwhelm Whang Od’s small village and so as to help spread tourist dollars around the area. Apo stopped tattoing at almost 6:00pm (it was summer so sunset was late). I went on the long journey to meet the famous Apo Whang Od, the last mambabatok (tribal tattoo artist) in her village, Kalinga. Share review. Whang-Od’s Tattoo. Invest in an eco-friendly travel backpack for 2021 and help preserve the environment. She took a quick look at our freshly-inked tattoos and told the guide the total price. Whang Od’s house is quite modest, although she is always well dressed and one of the richest women in the tribe … To get to Buscalan, Whang Od’s village, you must first travel to Bontoc – an easy jump from Sagada or an overnight bus from Manila. She then passed it on to her grandniece, Grace Palicas, who has been to Dutdutan, the country’s biggest and grandest tattoo … Plus other collabs with the legendary tattoo artist. Get a tour guide. Kalinga’s 102-year old tattoo legend – the last and the oldest mambabatok of her tribe – Apo Whang Od A post shared by Maine Mendoza (@mainedcm) on Mar 30, 2019 at 10:05pm PDT According to the report, Maine Mendoza considered their trip going to the tattoo artist as one of her most memorable experience. Tattoo Life Crew. The jeepney usually leaves some time between 1 pm and 2 pm. I strongly recommend that you bring Whang Od some … The … She is increasingly fussy about who she tattoos, as is her right. First to Review. Whang Od didn’t look like she was in her nineties. Her enigmatic tattoos are the main reason travelers from all over the world come to … There were three of us by the way. Hyponatremia can dilute your body’s sodium level, thus, causing weakness, nausea, vomiting and confusion. Despite her popularity, preserving the rich Kalinga art faces many setbacks. Plan your trip during weekdays. Also, please be reminded that going to the beach or swimming in pools are not allowed until your tattoo is completely healed (exposing your tattoo to the sun and water for a long period of time might affect the final look of the tattoo) . I arrived at the village without warning, one minute I was still on the lonely path, the next moment, I burst from the jungle and was standing next to a wooden shack with a tin roof. Our budget for a 2-night stay is Php5,000 (splurge budget already) per head inclusive of transportation, food, souvenirs, tattoo, guide fees and tips. Tattoo is now appreciated by many because of the different perspective used by media and netizens. I have heard reports that sometimes the village now has up to four hundred visitors a day, largely as a result of the villagers actively promoting Whang Od in a bid to open up the area to tourism. I strongly recommend that you bring Whang Od some gifts, we bought her some basic food stuff – soft bread (she doesn’t have that many teeth left!) I had been conformable travelling in Sagada, happy to be in a small mountain town with a cool climate and numerous hike. In ones and twos, the villagers came out to greet us, they spoke only limited English but luckily Pot Pot acted as a translator and before I knew it I was whisked away by a friendly family and shown a place where I could lay my pack and sleep for the night. Also, in my opinion, this helps the Butbut Tribe earn a living, get a tour guide who is a native of Buscalan or from Butbut Tribe and not from anywhere else. The Whang-Od tattoo cap from New Era Caps Philippines is on sale for P2,095. Prepare yourself emotionally and physically. If I’m not mistaken, she doesn’t do customized designs. Others get lucky but it’s not always the situation. Prices are subject to change with out prior notice For rates for less than 06 participants please contact us. (Prices … Buscalan is a great spot to start more adventurous off the beaten track adventures into the hills and from Buscalan it is possible to arrange multi-day treks to other, very rarely visited Kalinga villages…. I was starstruck to see a living legend, however, disappointed by … It rests in the Kalinga province of the Philippines The Many Faces of Whang-od, Philippines’ Legendary Tattooist. If you do go to visit Whang Od, please be polite, do not contribute to the litter problem and realise that the village can struggle to cope with such large numbers of tourists. Slowly but surely we traipsed further from the road and higher into the hills. Those who had their batok in Buscalan say that it usually takes a month or so before their tattoos get completely healed. Whang-Od is a mambabatok of the But-But tribe.Batok is the term for the technique she uses where the ink, made of a mixture of soot and water, is embedded into the skin by a pomelo thorn (which serves … Embed review. In our case, we gave her a lipstick (I learned she loves ’em), big pack of wet wipes and Lemon Square cupcakes. 1. © 2020, The Broke Backpacker. As soon as you get off the jeepney, you will probably be met by local guides. For better or for worse, tourism has now arrived at the village as word of Whang Od and her tattooing skills continue to spread far and wide. Apo Whang-Od is one of the Philippines' national treasures. This includes your ascend to the village, your whole stay in Buscalan (so maximize your guide as much as possible, ask him to tour you around the village, falls or terraces) and your descend from the mountain. There’s no phone signal in Buscalan, all the more data signal. b. Shorts, leggings, few shirts (depending on the length of your stay) and one reliable jacket or shawl would do. 425 reviews. Be sure to check out the villager’s awesome bamboo smoking pipes… They are an excellent way to keep yourself entertained in the evening and to help support crafts in the village. If you ask her for a selfie then you are god-damn stupid. Once conferred, Whang-od would get a gold medallion, a monthly allowance of Php 14,000 and a starting grant of Php 100,000. A living legend in the Philippines, she has mastered the indigenous inking art of the “batok” and is a … Whang-Od belongs to a generation of people from the Philippines’ Buscalan community, who are probably the only few people left with elaborate inked designs on their body. The tattoos will come afterwards starting at a price of 500 Philippine pesos. It was still sore and delicate to the touch. (make sure you advise your guide when you’re in Tabuk already so he can estimate your ETA because there’s no phone signal at the Tinglayan turning point). Whang-Od is a mambabatok of the But-But tribe.Batok is the term for the technique she uses where the ink, made of a mixture of soot and water, is embedded into the skin by a pomelo thorn (which serves as the needle).The thorn is attached into a bamboo stick which would then be repeatedly tapped by another bamboo stick until the desired design is tattooed on the skin. Bringing a book will also help kill boredom while waiting for your turn to be tattooed. More information. I was not aware that she is quite well known among the tribal tattoo artist until I googled her. The villagers request that foreigners do NOT visit Buscalan for one or two days, stay longer or don’t go at all. A: Depends on how big the design is. Ask the driver to drop you off at St. William’s Cathedral in Tabuk. She was sprightly, humorous even, and smiled from beneath a heavy black hoodie – the kind of thing a teenager might wear. The trek to Buscalan takes between forty minutes and two hours depending on fitness. The NCCA conferred the Dangal ng Haraya Award for Intangible Cultural Heritage on tattoo folk artist Apo Whang-Od Oggay—the first time the award has been given to a traditional or folk artist. Just make the wet wipes ply available on her sight, don’t push her to get it. It was passed on to her by her father who taught her the way of traditional tattooing. She is a living national treasure being hailed as the oldest “ Mambabatok ” of the native tribe of Butbut in Buscalan Village, Kalinga. Below are the steps being done to get your batok. 8. It was going to be dark soon. It was July 2015, when my friends and I decided to head to Buscalan, Kalinga to meet with the renowned traditional tattoo artist from the Butbut tribe, Whang-Od. People from Buscalan say that it is advisable to go during weekdays  as there are less people lining up. The hike to Barangay Buscalan and trek back to the Tinglayan turning point is a little dangerous, especially with the small rocks and stones along the way so make sure you have sturdy and comfortable shoes that won’t let you down or literally fall down. I had spent most of the morning agonizing over what tattoo to get and had, in the end, decided upon a fern; a symbol of rebirth and, I later found out, fertility. It crawled and writhed as Whang Od continued to breathe life into it with her bamboo hammer. She is the oldest traditional tattoo artists in the Philippines. Also, many people say (those who have experienced machine tattoos already) that a batok or Apo Whang-od’s traditional way of tattooing is more painful than machine tattoos so you also have to consider that. Starting price is usually Php300-Php500 and up. Legendary tattoo master Whang-Od was transported from her tribal village of Buscalan to the capital for the Manila FAME trade show, with the help of the Philippine Army and Air Force. Mambabatok refers to the people who practice the art of traditional tattoo making called Batok which is popular among the tribal warriors of the Cordillera region. . Some people make singit so be sure to tell or remind your guide to be vigilant as well. So even if you get your tattoo done by Grace or Elyang, you will have to go find Apo & show your tattoo to her for pricing. Surrounded by lush rice terraces and undulating landscape, the mountain village of Buscalan is home to just 200 or so households. You’ll know it’s almost done when Apo Whang-od starts imprinting her signature “3 dots”. Little things mean a lot. Thus, your smart phone is good for nothing except for taking photos and videos. Thus, whenever they see guests, they never fail to say “candies”. Whang-od Oggay (First name pronunciation: [ˈɸɐŋˈʔɘd]; [check IPA] born February 17, 1917), also known as Maria Oggay, is a Filipino tattoo artist from Buscalan, Tinglayan, Kalinga, Philippines. Don’t be too finicky or ‘maselan’. Apo (a word to show respect) Whang-od does NOT do full tattoos anymore because she is 101 years old and her eyesight isn’t up to it anymore. Ask your tour guide to ask if how much is the price of your tattoo and…PICTURE! Apo will make two or more passes or finishing touches on the already pierced skin (for me that’s the part when it hurts the most) to make sure that pattern has been engraved properly and ink was fully absorbed by your skin. All rights reserved. This is also for the protection of the tourists so please heed their advise. I really mean it! The Backpacker Bible – Learn how to ditch your desk and travel the world on just $10 a day whilst building a life of long-term travel with an online income. Whack, whack, whack. Apo Whang Od is probably one of the most revered Filipinas of our generation. Their house is located just beside Buscalan Elementary School. With that, if you have any plans to hit the beach anytime soon, take into consideration the healing time needed. I watched as the thorn punctured my skin, again and again, forcing the charcoal inside the wound, five times a second. Don’t expect her to open the wet wipes and pull each ply as she’s very focused and busy on your tattoo, tendency is, she’ll just use the easily available wet wipes near her. There’s an extra fee if you exceed 5). I. Fare is Php700. The travel to Barangay Buscalan is no walk in the park and the long wait and queue to be marked by Apo is another thing. Also, since Apo Whang-od is not very fluent or has very  limited tagalog or english vocabulary, your guide will also serve as your interpreter, he will also be the one to talk to Whang-od, Grace or Elyang (Apo Whang-od’s grand daughters whom she also trained to be mambabatok) if it’s already your turn to be tattooed. Shameless bit of self promo here but this book is basically my dissertation on backpacking, nine years of tips and tricks and your purchase helps keep the site going. Her skills and talent made Buscalan famous for the Kalinga tattoo. Waiting for the most coveted batok from Apo Whang-od can really test your patience especially if you only have one or two days to spare. The villagers are all wonderfully friendly people and you will end up staying in one of the villager’s homes. Plus other collabs with the legendary tattoo artist. Rate of tour guide is Php1,000 per day (max of 5 pax. 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